Saturday, July 15, 2000

Caffe Adulis

Eritrean food doesn't usually figure prominently when New Yorkers are trying to decide what type of food they want. But those who've been to Caffe Adulis know better. The former Italian colony on the Horn of Africa has produced a cuisine of dazzling flavours and intensity, combining curries and fiercely flavoured stews, couscous, lentils, nuts and sweets. Chef Ficre Ghebreyesus takes its finest elements in order to serve up delights such as the shrimp and chicken barkas, whose stewy base is offset with fresh mint and basil, and a hint of coconut.

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